我在 1980 年代初認識的利物浦 (Liverpool) 在英國經濟大衰退中是滿目蒼夷,二十多年後它像火鳯凰般重生,2008 年被選為歐洲文化之都。
市中心 Mersey 河畔的三大建築物代表了利物浦的航運、保險和海港貨物進出管理三大經濟運作,在十九世紀中掌控了全球近四成的海上航運;導致市中心部分建設規模比倫敦還要大,包括劇院、愽物館、市政廳和大型酒店。
當然最為世人認知的卻是利物浦的「披頭四」樂隊、鮮為人知的是利物浦航運部分是依靠運送非洲奴隸至美洲的大茶飯生意起家。
Liverpool, like a phoenix rising from the ashes of its 1970s decay... facing the Mersey waterfront are the refurbished trio from early 1900s representing Liverpool’s historical successes in insurance, shipping and port logistics; one of several tunnel ventilation towers with the most resplendent Art Deco glory; and the new RIBA North glass cube next to the Albert Dock warehouses... No one has told me what to expect from Liverpool, so.... wow !
1999 年《國家地理》的《旅遊人雜誌》挑選了英國西北部的湖泊區域 (Lake District) 作為人生五十個必遊地方之一,但極附盛名的義大利北部 Lake Como 和加拿大中西部 Lake Louise 卻榜上無名。當中的考慮可能是除了漂亮的沿岸湖境外 (例如 Windermere 和 Ambleside 沿岸一帶),Lake District 附近的小鎮和村落確實是迷人,我們的至愛是小鎮 Grasmere ,但其他同樣難忘的地方包括高山埈領多的是,有待你們親身去體驗。
For us, the charm of Lake District in north west England lies less in the lakes and more in the villages and hills around the lakes. Grasmere is our favourite village here, yet there are many others equally enchanting.
英國西北湖洎區域的 Grasmere 村落除了是山明水秀加上整整有條的村莊屋宇外,另一吸引遊客到訪之處是埋葬在村內 St Oswald 教堂側的十九世紀著名浪漫派詩人 William Wordsworth 及他家族的墓地。
對於我和太太這些屬於 1970 年代在香港接受英式傳統教育的一群,Wordsworth 的 Daffodils 就是學習高中英國文學的集體回憶之一 ;當然太太牢記在心的程度遠比我為深刻,所以 Grasmere 是她嚷著要來的,當然我亦樂於跟隨....
Lake District boat ride from Bowness-on-Windermere to Ambleside, followed by visit to the village of Grasmere. At the churchyard of St Oswald in Grasmere lies the tomb of William Wordsworth, whose romantic poems are among our collective memories of A Level English literature.
2018 年在利物浦文化界的一大盛事,肯定是五月中在利物浦愽物館 (Museum of Liverpool) 作全球首次展出的 《Double Fantasy》 展覽開幕,是圍繞披頭四樂隊靈魂人物約翰連儂和他的太太大野洋子的半身緣。如果你是喜愛約翰連儂 1971 年灌錄的名曲 《Imagine 》的話,你真的應該考慮在2019 年四月前,到利物浦愽物館走一趟。
我們在 2018 年的盛夏之旅,慶幸有數天能夠在利物浦渡過。
You may or may not like Yoko Ono’s art and music; but if you like the song “Imagine” composed and first performed by John Lennon, you have got to see the exhibition “Double Fantasy : John & Yoko” at Museum of Liverpool, from now until 22 April, 2019.... a good reason, among other good reasons, to visit Liverpool over the next nine months ! We did, in summer 2018...
2018 世界柸賽事中,英格蘭的年輕球隊為他們的支持者帶來不少興奮與期待。在七月十一日的準決賽,不少人都認為英格蘭是雖敗猶榮。就譲我們在這裏重溫英格蘭跟克羅地亞和瑞典的兩場比賽中的入球時刻吧 !
Team England exited from FIFA World Cup at the semi, with pride and not cynicism. So a reprise of those joyful moments on tele when England scored against Croatia and Sweden, in summer of 2018.
雖然利物浦聲稱它有在英倫最歷史悠久的唐人街,但我們還是喜歡在一小時車程外的曼徹斯特那些既是熟悉卻又帶點不一樣的映象,包括飯店霓虹光管招牌、唐人西餅蛋糕店、和全身黑色衣服的暑期學生待應....
Despite Liverpool claiming to have the oldest Chinatown in the UK, Manchester’s Chinatown has more striking images from pastries shop to neon lights and the coolest waitress dressed in black....
於 1967 年建成的 Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King ,是全英國面積最大的天主教大教堂,建築師 Sir Frederick Gibberd 透過室內圓形設計突顯包容的概念。大型屋頂的彩色磨沙玻璃繪圖帶來莊嚴神聖感覺,來到利物浦不容錯過。說真的,利物浦作為一個文化創意藝術城市,絕對不容錯過。
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King in Liverpool, UK’s largest Catholic Cathedral designed by Sir Frederick Gibberd as a cathedral-in-the-round to accentuate inclusivity. Absolutely awe-inspiring; a joy to experience its solemnity and yes, holiness. A must-see when visiting Liverpool; and Liverpool a must-visit for the creative mind....
談到利物浦的文化創意藝術,又怎能不提披頭四在樂隊解散前後創作的流行音樂,這麼多年來依然在利物浦市中心的 Matthew Street 一帶廷績下去,包括近期保羅麥卡尼在一個電視節目中,突然出現於披頭四初出道時曾經駐埸的音樂會所 Cavern 並即興表演,之後在社交平台瘋傳....
我們在利物浦的最後一天,總得要到 Matthew Street 朝聖嘛 !
Our last day at Liverpool; lasting images of Matthew Street where the Beatles have lived on.... Yesterday; Let it Be; Let it Be....
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